Monday, 23 September 2013

How To Care For A Hamster



Are you considering bringing a hamster in to the family? Or have you always been a pet owner and are looking for some new tips? Look no further, you'll find them here.



1 - Things to consider


You need to look for healthy signs when buying a hamster, and I would advise buying from a reputable breeder instead of a pet shop.
Unhealthy signs (With any breed) can include:

  • Drooping or gunky ears
  • Wet nose
  • Wet tail (A form of diarrhoea which can be caused from too much fruit or veg, and even stress)
  • Lethargic behaviour
  • Wheezing or sneezing (Could be a respiratory issue, or even the flu. Yes, hamsters can catch a cold!)
More experienced hamster owners should consider rescue hamsters as they can often be harder to deal with and sometimes impossible to tame. (E.G. The Pets at Home adoption centre.)


2 - What breed?

You need to consider what type of hamster you want, as there are many different species that require different upbringings.

Syrian
The Syrian (Teddy Bear/Golden) is the largest domestic species of hamster. They are solitary and territorial, therefore must be housed alone. They are the most common type of domestic hamster and have a lot of variety of coats and breeds. Their life span is approximately 2-2.5 years.

Teddy Bean - Syrian



Chinese -
The Chinese hamster (Listed in P@H as a Chinese 'Dwarf', which is incorrect) is smaller than the Syrian, and has a slightly longer tail. They can be housed in pairs as they are more sociable than the Syrian, however be prepared to get a second cage as some pairs can still end up fighting. It all depends on the hamsters individually.


Hope - Chinese



Roborovski
(Robo dwarf) They are the smallest domesticated hamster, and they're probably not even the length of your little finger (looking at mine, which is about 2.5 inches). They are NOT recommended for children as they are very fast and will rarely sit still in your hand. Though they can be tamed just like any other hamster. They are commonly known as the longest living hamster, living on average 3 years.


Karot - Roborovski



Winter White/Campbells - 
These are another two dwarf hamster species that can be kept in pairs. They are so named as their coats can turn whiter in winter, however they are usually a grey colour with a darker stripe down their back. They can also have fluffy feet. The Russian hamster is a hybrid of these two species'.


Thistle & Pippy - Winter White & Campbells 


Click here to view a video describing the difference between Winter White and Campbell hamsters.

Be sure to do your research on the species' individually before buying on compulsion. You need to ensure you're putting that hamsters health and well-being before your own fun.


3 - Housing

You need a suitable cage depending on the species of hamster. All hamsters need a cage with as large as possible floorspace for exercise, and to prevent boredom. This does not include any add-on cages. Smaller breeds require a tank/aquarium type cage, with a mesh roof for ventilation, to breathe and keep cool in the summer. This is as they are small enough to squeeze through the bars and escape, which could result in them having a nasty fall, running away, or chewing on an electrical wire!

The Syrian hamster is commonly placed in a wire cage with the bar spacing being 1cm, and the cage must be at LEAST 80cm by 50cm long, and 45cm tall. Some popular cages are the Mamble 100 and the Alexander. Hamster Heaven by Savic is another favourite, though some people create their own bin cages using large plastic boxes and wire mesh.

Keep in mind a hamster would prefer a larger base to run around than a taller cage with shelves. They prefer hiding and digging to climbing.

If you DO buy from a pet shop, bear in mind the sizes are often wrong. If it's labelled as a Syrian cage, it's more than likely the size for a dwarf (Though do not buy it for a Dwarf or Chinese if it has bars). Try to imagine yourself in a cage of similar proportions, with no space to run around and you just wait for your owner to pick you up so you can get out!
Have a look at this video for a guide to cage sizes: Click here


4 - Bedding

For base bedding most people use wood shavings and others use tissue type clumped material like Fitch (Which can be bought in larger 10/20kg bales) or Carefresh. It is possible your hamster can develop allergies to the shavings, and you don't want the sharp pieces to dig in to their paws or cheeks. Avoid pine and cedar bedding as it gives off toxic fumes when urinated on. Also avoid sawdust, as it can irritate their respiratory system.

For nesting material, steer clear of any 'fluffy bedding' bedding that looks like cotton wool, even if it says "Safe" or "Vegetable Fibres". This is a dangerous type of bedding for two main reasons:
1 - It can wrap around limbs, causing loss of blood flow and they may need amputation, and in some cases, hamsters can gnaw their own limbs off to free themselves! 
And
2 - When they tear the pieces apart to make their bed comfier, they can ingest pieces of the material which will get lodged within their respiratory system causing what looks like a cold, but is incurable. They will be wheezing and struggling to breathe as the bedding doesn't break down inside, and it is a very slow death. It is recommended by the best breeders to use ripped up unscented, uncoloured toilet roll. Cheap and easy!

Those in the UK, sign this petition to do your bit! - Click here


5 - Food

Choose the food that is labelled "Hamster food", do not get one intended for rats, gerbils etc. Harry/Hazel hamster is recommended. You can add some other bits like fennel leaves, dandelion leaves, sage and milk thistle. Hamsters can also have minimal amounts of cooked chicken breast for protein, and small pieces of vegetables like cucumber, carrots and green beans a few times a week. Do not give them too many fruits and vegetables, as it can cause wet tail (Diarrhoea). Do not give your hamster anything that would be unhealthy to a human, like chocolate and crisps. No sugary, salty or fatty foods.




Straw is not suitable for hamsters as it can damage their cheek pouches.

Below is a list of foods you can and cannot give your hamster occasionally:
Click here for the list



6 - Toys and chews

Hamsters teeth continue to grow throughout their life, therefore they need chews and toys to gnaw on to keep them down and prevent them hurting their gums. If a hamsters teeth get too long and it stops them eating or injures them, they will have to be taken to the vet immediately to get them trimmed. Do not attempt this yourself. It can also be caused by excessive bar chewing, which can cause the teeth to grow in crooked.

Below is a list of some chews and toys you can get for small pets to keep them entertained:

Alfalfa blocks
Loofah toys
Untreated wooden chews
Cardboard tubes (Also toilet/Kitchen roll tubes)
Hammocks
Shelves
Walnut dangle toy


7 - Exercise

Hamsters are active creatures and in the wild would run approximately 5 miles per night. This means they need to keep active in and out of their cage, and a lot of owners do this by buying a hamster wheel. Here are some examples of ones suitable:

Silent Spinner - 
This comes in 3 different sizes; 4", 6" and 12".  The 12" would be suitable for a Syrian, and the 6" for a Dwarf hamster. 11" is the minimum size for a syrian to prevent their backs arching and developing spinal problems.


Flying Saucer - 
The Flying Saucer is more suitable for the dwarf hamsters as it can make Syrians turn their backs too much. 



Wodent Wheel - 
This is the perfect wheel for Syrians (The 11") as it's big enough, and it's also quieter than other wheels. 


Trixie - 
This is an imitation Wodent wheel, and my personal favourite. It's rather quiet, and it can be free standing or latched on to the bars.




You must consider all these points and do some research before buying a hamster. You must be able to devote up to 4 years to care for them, and ensure you don't get 'bored' and neglect them. They require daily attention and love just like any animal. If cared for they can be the perfect pet!


Sign The Petition Today!

"No More Fluffy Bedding" Group

Also thank you to ErinsHamsters


Monday, 26 August 2013

Fiancé Does My Nails



Here we have it. I challenged Andy to attempt certain nail designs that I've previously done.. Here are his efforts compared to my original work!





It initially looked as though the Minion was half way through brushing his teeth. He forgot the grey round the goggles, and he has no arms or hair! Gelato?



No, this isn't roadkill or something left in a toilet. It's Andy's attempt at a heart.




He gets a bit of credit for this one, it's quite neat. However there's been a top coat fail as you can see near the top left corner, he's not started at the top of the nail. 



 

Oh Dear. Oh Dear Dear Dear. What's right about this? At least it wasn't a "P" or something. It looks like an omelette. 






He's got the right idea, just not the steady hand for it!







While we had fun doing this in the hour or so it took, I think I'll stick to doing my own nails, and he'll stick to Football!


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Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Tools For Nail Art


Here I am going to give you tips on which products are useful when painting nails and creating artistic designs. Don't forget to like Popular Polish!



Nail Polish

You can get almost any colour imaginable. My favourite brands are No. 7, Beauty UK, Art Deco, and Barry M as they do not test on animals. It's a good idea to throw away nail varnish once it reaches approximately 6 months old, as it can get unusable when designing. Alternatively, invest in nail polish thinner.






Magnetic - This polish usually has a magnet on the lid which you hover over the painted nails to create swirls.
Matte - This dulls when it dries. It's great when contrasting it with a non-matte design, and really makes it pop.



Crackle - Crackle polish splits while it dries. This looks best when you put a plain colour underneath as contrast.
Neon - Is an exceptionally bright colour, sometimes luminous or glow in the dark.
Glitter - Will be sparkly or have a shimmer effect to it.


Acrylic Paint

It isn't so well known that acrylic paints work on nails. It's easy to mix the paints to create exactly the right shade you want for your design. Just remember to put on a base coat so the colour doesn't stain your nails!



Paintbrushes

Different sizes brushes, and multiple for fine art so you don't have to clean them off immediately when you need a new colour. You can also cut paintbrushes into the shape and length you want.




Fine art brush

One of the main tools when it comes to nail art, tiny brushes are useful when doing smaller designs.

Fan brush

These are used to lightly brush off shimmer dust or create marbleised stripes.

Striper

A striper is long and thin and is used to create stripes and straight lines.



Acrylic Gel brush

These are shaped to easily place the acrylic nail gel on top of a nail form.


Image courtesy of nailsmag.com


Dotting Tools

These are great for finer details. You can get them on Ebay. If you don't have a small paint palette a piece of paper will do to dot your tool into the polish and on to your nails. 






Nail Varnish Remover

Nail art usually takes a bit more elbow grease to remove the polish, as there are more layers than the basic manicure. I recommend remover that contains acetone, as it's slightly harsher. Some people wish to stay away from anything with acetone due to it's strong nature, however it makes removing the polish a lot simpler whereas with non-acetone based removers you will go through a lot more liquid and cotton. Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after removing nail varnish, so the remover doesn't damage your nails.




Top Coat

A top coat helps your design last longer and prevents immediate chipping. I recommend Seche Vite for fast drying and longer lasting art. However do not use it if you have French Tips, as it stains white yellow after a couple of days. Wait at least 10 minutes before applying your top coat so there is minimal smudging. Also ensure your top coat is not gloopy, as the thickness causes the brush to drag along the nail and smudge.


Gems

Rhinestones are a pretty addition to nail art. You can get all shapes and sizes.





Other essentials include:


Clippers - Clip nails straight across to refresh the edge of your nail making it stronger.
Nail file - File nails to create a smooth edge. Go for a squarer shape to ensure they don't become ingrown, they also look more professional this way.
Base coat - A base coat is essential to protect your natural nails and ensure there will be minimal staining from the coloured polish.
Nail polish thinner - Do not use nail varnish remover to thin out gloopy nail polish as it will be worse in the long run. Invest in a thinner and you will most likely not have to buy another as it lasts a long time.
Cuticle pusher - It looks like a metal, plastic or rubber stick and it's used to push back the cuticles. NEVER cut your cuticles as this can cause infection.
Cuticle oil - Cuticle oil is used after the cuticle pusher and after shaping the nails to promote growth. I also use nail cream and massage into the nails and cuticles.


With thanks to Andy Hall for the use of his short nails